2021 Grand Tour
Travel Dates: June 27, 2021 ~ September 5, 2021
Document Last Modified: November 7, 2023
Map
Introduction
In the summer of 2021, I embarked on a journey to explore the beauty of America. Up until that point, my travels had been limited to a handful of states on the East Coast. This particular adventure was unique in several ways—it marked my longest solo train journey in terms of both duration and distance, spanning 71 days and covering over 8000 miles of rail travel. My journey commenced and concluded in New York City.
2021 marked the 50th anniversary of Amtrak, and to celebrate, they offered a fantastic "50th Anniversary Sale" with fares slashed by 50%, capped at $50 per segment.
Crescent 19 (New York, NY to Birmingham, AL)
I started my journey at the new Moynihan Train Hall in New York City. Since I opted for a roomette, I was able to wait at the Amtrak Metropolitan Lounge and had some complimentary snacks and drinks there.
For someone not accustomed to frequent train travel and a first-time roomette booker, the experience was eye-opening. The two seats facing each other can turn into a bed at night. There is another bed above that can be folded down. The Viewliner roomette also equipped with a toilet and a sink.
The sleeping accommodation also came with free meals. You can choose to either eat in your room or dine in the dining car. During the Covid-19 pandemic many dining service on the trains changed to "Flexible Dining". As of 2021, only some (mostly western long distance) trains still offer the traditional dining.
One of the perks of train travel is the opportunity to enjoy scenic views. I particularly enjoyed the views in Washington D.C., where iconic monuments like the United States Capitol and Thomas Jefferson Memorial can be seen from my room window. I didn't get my camera ready so I did not get any good photo.
At night, the sleeping car attendant assists in converting the seats into a bed. Despite the summer season, the room was quite chilly, but Amtrak thoughtfully provided a small blanket. Even though the train travel quite fast, it was relatively smooth. I was able to get a good sleep.
I reached Birmingham, AL the next day, just past noon.
Crescent 19 (Birmingham, AL to New Orleans, LA)
The train arrvied at New Orleans at night time. I took Uber immediately to my hotel and did not have a good look at the station.
Sunset Limited 1 (New Orleans, LA to Houston, TX)
I walked to the Union Passenger Terminal. The walk was not too bad in the morning. I finally got a chance to take a good look at the station. It's quite surprising to see how many people regularly take the train from New Orleans to Los Angeles.
Nearly every long-distance Amtrak train I've ridden featured an observation car for great views, a key highlight of train travel. Seating was first-come, first-service. I tend go there when anticipating a beautiful view or if I want a change from my assigned seat. Of course, you can return to your original seat at any time.
Sunset Limited 1 (Houston, TX to El Paso, TX)
The location of the Houston Amtrak Station was not ideal. I had to Uber there on my arrival and departure.
After passing Del Rio, TX, the landscape took on a distinct and unfamiliar character, a stark contrast for those accustomed to urban living. As the train neared the Pecos River, the conductor's voice came over the intercom, informing us to the presence of the historic Pecos River High Bridge. Although I missed capturing the bridge in a photo, I managed to capture the scenic view as the train crossed the bridge.
While en route from Alpine, TX to El Paso, keep an eye on the left side of the window to spot an unexpected sight—a Prada store seemingly in the middle of nowhere, which turns out to be an art installation called Prada Marfa. I was initially perplexed by its presence and later researched its significance. Unfortunately, I missed the opportunity to photograph it.
My journey was marred by a more than 6-hour delay, coupled with a storm that brought strong winds and blowing dust upon arrival. Fortunately, my hotel was conveniently located nearby.
Sunset Limited 1 (El Paso, TX to Tucson, AZ)
On the day of my departure, I was excited to explore the historic El Paso Union Depot. Inside, I discovered a spacious indoor waiting area, rich with history. Although I had come on time, my train was once again hours late.
El Paso, a border town with Mexico, allowed passengers a glimpse of the border wall and a view of Mexico from the train.
My train arrived in Tucson hours later than planned, which was somewhat anticipated, considering its initial departure delay. This experience highlighted the importance of booking a hotel close to the station when dealing with long-distance trains scheduled to arrive in the late afternoon. It's essential to avoid finding yourself in an unfamiliar place after dark with limited transportation options.
From Tucson I took a short trip to Phoenix, AZ, the state's capital and the most populous city. It's astonishing that there's no direct train connection to Phoenix, which led me to opt for taking a FlixBus.
Sunset Limited 1 (Tucson, AZ to Los Angeles, CA)
Upon departing Tucson for Los Angeles, my train was once again delayed by hours. Fortunately, at the station location there was a a nice indoor waiting area and a small Southern Arizona Transportation Museum on site to explore.
My train pulled into Los Angeles Union Station at 10:48 AM, a few hours behind schedule. However, this delay didn't bother me as I had no particular plans for the early morning hours.
Coast Starlight 14 (Los Angeles, CA to Oakland, CA)
News reports alerted me to the impact of wildfires, which had led to the cancellation of certain segments of Coast Starlight 14. Thankfully, my leg of the journey from Los Angeles to Oakland on August 2nd remained unaffected. However, it was disheartening to learn that the segment from Sacramento to Seattle had been canceled, with no alternative transportation options offered at the moment. This news left me quite apprehensive, as I had plans to complete the remainder of my journey on Coast Starlight 14 in a few days, with a considerable distance left to cover. I held out hope that an alternative service would be made available by the time I departed for Oakland, CA.
Departing from Los Angeles, the initial stretch of the route hugs the coastline closely, offering captivating views of the ocean. However, the visibility is limited by the marine layer.
Following the San Luis Obispo Station, the train navigated a massive horseshoe curve, an unexpected sight, the California Men's Colony prison, came into view.
It's truly captivating to witness a diverse array of intriguing sights, ones that typically elude city dwellers.
The train suprisingly arrived early for once,but due to the late hour and safety concerns, I opted for a Lyft to my nearby hotel in Oakland, even though it would only take me less than 10-minute to walk.
Coast Starlight 14 (Oakland, CA to Seattle,WA)
The day to embark on the Coast Starlight 14 journey to Seattle arrived, but complications persisted due to a Wildland Fire damaging the Dry Canyon Bridge, causing an interruption in the Coast Starlight service. Fortunately, a few days prior, Amtrak had initiated a bus bridge to connect passengers from Sacramento, CA to Klamath Falls, OR. I was immensely relieved, as it spared me from the need to book additional bus or airfare, which could have negatively impacted both my travel time and budget.
We arrived at Sacramento Valley Station at 12:22AM, 23 minutes late from schedule. Everyone then quickly got off the train. There wasn't much signage to show us where to go, so I followed fellow passengers to the bus transfer area. Some buses went directly to Klamath Falls, while others made stops along the way. Staff ensured we boarded the correct bus, and they even provided a small goodie bag with water and snacks. The bus left promptly when full, making the operation very smooth. I managed to get some rest during the bus journey.
Our bus arrived at the Amtrak Klamath Falls Station around 7:21AM. The Amtrak Coast Starlight 1014 was already there waiting. We had some time to walk around and relax before the train departed for Seattle, but there wasn't much to see within walking distance of the station.
Empire Builder 8 (Seattle,WA to Minnpls-St.Paul, MN)
My next leg was on the Empire Builder train, one of the longest train routes in the Amtrak system. The train travel between Chicago, IL and either Seattle, WA or Portland, OR with a split in Spokane, WA. Even though I wasn't covering the entire route, this leg still marked the longest segment in my entire trip.
Due to the extended duration of the trip, I opted for a roomette sleeper class once again. The roomette on the Empire Builder is superliner roomette instead of viewliner roomette that I took before. The superliner features two levels, unlike the single level of the viewliner. Instead of an en suite toilet, the superliner has a shared restroom area on the lower level. While many people may not prefer the toilet in the viewliner roomette, I, on the contrary, appreciated its convenience, as I enjoy having a private toilet.
Dining in the sleeper class was complimentary and the dining experience on the Empire Builder was excellent. It featured traditional dining with three-course meals, similar to those from a regular restaurant. The view from the dining car was spectacular, especially in the western section of the route.
Beside the delicious meal, the view in the dining car is surely stunning.
The western section of the Empire Builder route offered breathtaking views, with mountainous terrain.
Beyond the mountain region, along the Empire Builder route in Montana, the predominant landscape comprises extensive farmlands, with glimpses of animals and small towns.
When we reached Minot, ND, it was already night. When I woke up, we were nearly at my next destination, Minneapolis, MN.
The train arrived at the St. Paul-Minneapolis Union Depot ahead of schedulea, a rarity for the Amtrak long-distance journeys I'd taken. I asked the conductor about the usual punctuality of the Empire Builder, and he said that there had been quite a bit of lateness lately. It seemed like I was fortunate on this occasion.
Empire Builder 8 (Minnpls-St.Paul, MN to Milwaukee, WI)
After a few enjoyable days in Minneapolis, it was time to travel to Milwaukee, WI. The Empire Builder, being the only train serving this station, left me with limited flexibility. Unfortunately, the train was delayed for more than 4 hours on this leg.
The train ride from Minneapolis, MN to Milwaukee, WI lasted about 6 hours, passing through numerous bodies of water and charming towns.
Due to delay, I arrived at Milwaukee, WI later than planned. Luckily there is a Light rail station conveniently located outside of the Milwaukee Intermodal Station for quick access to downtown.
Hiawatha Service 334 (Milwaukee, WI to Chicago, IL)
To continue from Milwaukee, WI to Chicago, IL, I took the Hiawatha Service train, which offered more frequent departures. It took about one and a half hours to get to Chicago, IL.
Lake Shore Limited 48 (Chicago, IL to New York, NY)
Finally, I embarked on the Lake Shore Limited 48 to return to New York, which was the last segment of my summer grand tour around America.
Since the Lake Shore Limited train was scheduled to leave in the evening, and I needed to vacate my hotel room by noon, I found myself spending a considerable amount of time at the station. Fortunately, I had booked a roomette which granted me access to the Metropolitan Lounge. Here, I could store my luggage and enjoy complimentary coffee, tea, and other drink and snacks.
When we began boarding, it had already turned dark outside.
The roomette on the Lake Shore Limited was the same as the Lake Shore Limited on the Crescent, with an en suite toilet, which I appreciate for its convenience.
The first half of the segment was in the dark, so there wasn't much to see.
I slept well and woke up close to Erie, PA.
Breakfast and lunch were basic flexible dining, unlike the traditional dining on the Empire Builder.
We reached Albany-Rensselaer station at around 2:22 pm. The instructions for boarding the bus were somewhat unclear; we simply followed one another and eventually found ourselves in the downstairs parking lot. We weren't entirely sure if this was the correct waiting area, but after some waiting, buses started arriving to pick us up.
Our bus arrived at the Port Authority Bus Terminal at 5:30PM, marking the end of my grand train tour of America in 2021.
